There were major salt mines just upstream. It's also a musical mecca, and the city puts on a huge annual festival as well as constant concerts. They were as kind as ever and the food was still as good as I remembered. Lovable Hallstatt is a tiny town bullied onto a ledge between a mountain and a swan-ruled lake. and staying 2-3 nights (2 full days). This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. Visit the grand cathedral (where Mozart performed) and Mozart’s childhood homes. If you look at the map of Austria, the closest big city to it is Linz, which is pretty much 1/2 way in between Vienna and Salzburg. Best of all, it comes with a fun funicular ride to the Rudolfsturm "Skywalk" Viewpoint, with stunning panoramas over the town and lake. One of Europe's mightiest castles, it dominates Salzburg's skyline. sights of Salzburg and surrounding countryside. Follow me for a little walk and enjoy a rare opportunity to drill deep into the mausoleum of a prince-bishop. Extending your trip? Lightweight, yet packed with info on the cities' history and culture, Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg truly is a tour guide in your pocket. To build "the Rome of the North.". Zum wohl! It has very nice views of Salzburg, the surrounding mountains, and the fortress (far in the distance). The hills are alive with the sound of music... …was named after this once-important spot. Lying on a busy trade route connecting northern Europe with the south, Salzburg was well aware of the exciting things going on in Italy. Cargo boats would float downstream and be dragged back upstream by horse. Austria Reviews. ▲ DomQuartier Museums Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich's Residenz palace, cathedral viewpoint, and religious art. — is named for this once-important spot. Many of the dug-up bones and skulls ended up in the bone chapel. The Catholic church overlooks the town from above. Herr Sporer: Schnapps is distilled fruits. (17:24). Hi, I just returned from my second trip to Salzburg and Germany in 2 years, and I am in love with Salzburg, and staying in the Altstadt area. The Hohensalzburg Fortress towers 400 feet above the Salzach River. Today, its three floors house rooms with exhibits displaying paintings, letters, personal items, and lots of facsimiles, all attempting to bring life to the Mozart story. In this compact guide, Rick Steves covers all the essentials of Munich, Bavaria, and Salzburg. While this particular tunnel dates only from 1719, Hallstatt's mine claims to be the oldest in the world. Rick Steves' Europe. ▲▲ Sound of Music Tour Bus or bike through S.O.M. Admission is free, but donations are prominently requested. Inside Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find: Comprehensive coverage for spending two weeks or more exploring Vienna, Salzburg and Tirol Rick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites A briny spring sprung here, attracting Bronze Age people. Last time I stayed in the Hotel Elephant, and it was very good, small rooms, central and it had air conditioning..which many in old bldgs do not have. Its name basically means "salt fortress." If you're driving between Salzburg and Hallstatt, you'll pass two luge rides operated by the same company; each course is just off the road with easy parking. It's Sunday morning. But his later residence, the Mozart Wohnhaus, across the river, offers a better exhibition on his life and times. Thanks for joining us. With around eight million visitors prowling its cobbled lanes each year, Salzburg can feel pretty touristy. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when traveling in Munich, Bavaria, and Salzburg. If no one cares enough to make the payment, you're gone. While the bone chapel is fascinating...there's more life down on the town square. How do you like that? It seems each plot is lovingly tended by relatives. Admire churches in Munich's main square, Marienplatz, or visit the world-famous Hofbräuhaus and Nymphenburg Palace. While its popularity has led to a glut of businesses hoping to catch the tourist dollar, Salzburg is nevertheless both a must and a joy. Even though Hallstatt's actual sights are subtle, wandering through town is a treat. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol book. As is often the case in rowdy European eateries like this, you share tables...and make new friends. Tucked away in the heart of the Old Town and abutting the rock wall of Mönchsberg is St. Peter's Cemetery. You'll still see the traditional Fuhr boats, designed to carry heavy loads in shallow water. This one dates from 1597. Even after the family gained fame, touring Europe's palaces and becoming the toast of Salzburg, they continued living in this rather cramped apartment. From Salzburg, as above re Werfen Castle and ice caves, plus St Gilgen and Wolfgangsee for choice, all easy to reach. Is that right? Salt — so precious as a preservative in pre-refrigerator days — was a huge part of this region's economy all the way back to pre-historic times. Posted on July 23, 2006 December 2, 2013. In the year 700, its Bavaria rulers gave control of Salzburg to the local bishop in return for his promise to defend and expand Christianity in the area. Buy your token, choose a mug —two choices: big and HUGE, give it a rinse…and fill 'er up. Until next time...keep on travelling. Share your candid opinions about hotels and restaurants or ask other travelers about their reviews. This fountain could be straight out of Italy. Getting a beer is fun in itself. Wealthy as those guys were, when they ran out of caring relatives, they were dug up, shipped out, and their fancy tombstones ended up on the wall. Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Fair enough. The town's decorative woodwork, a tradition that dates back centuries, reflects the wealth salt brought. Then home. For generations, the traditional salt miners' band has entertained their town. It's a chilling, educational, important and memorable experience. And this evening the Twins Quartet from Moscow play Mozart's Eine kleine Nachtmusik. Rick Steves' Europe. They're popular with big-city families who want the opportunity to stay on a farm, to learn to ride, and just get away from the intensity of urban life. St. Peter's Church Romanesque church with Rococo decor. They're cooked up fresh and simple and served with a nice Austrian dry white wine. One fun way to get a good dose of nature with a jolt of speed is on a Sommerrodlebahn. There was a Hallstatt before there was a Rome. Terms of Service | Privacy, Salzburg, Austria: Hohensalzburg Fortress and Mönchsberg, Salzburg, Austria: Music, Lakes and Mountains, Salzburg, Austria: Sampling Schnapps on Getreidegasse. This huge 1,000-seat beer garden within a monk-run brewery in the Kloster Mülln, is rustic and raw. Its river is called the "Salzach" not because it's salty, but because of the precious cargo it once carried. Archaeologists claim that since 7000 B.C., people have come here to get salt. Prost! The regulars here know that there are enough flavors of schnapps to keep them coming back again and again. We too will be in Scandanavia (Oslo) (and London) soon- we fly out Thursday night. Its cannons evoke both threats of centuries past and the power of Salzburg's rulers. The place is filled with scores of scores, portraits, [and] insights into his family life and how the young prodigy was basically home schooled by his hard-driving father. For fans, it's almost a pilgrimage. Salzburg's cathedral, constructed in the early 1600s, was one of the first grand Baroque buildings north of the Alps. In Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on:. They remembered us because of my husband's guide dog. Allow about three hours total for the round-trip funicular ride, viewpoint visit, and 1.5-hour salt-mine tour. The fun-loving, proud, and English-speaking Sporer family pours homemade spirits for regular customers and curious visitors alike. And in Salzburg, there's no better place to experience that than here at the Augustiner Bräustübl. And Alfred's not the only one with that idea. We're heading into the Mirabell Palace to hear a string quartet play in a splendid Baroque hall. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Salzburg. Rick Steves' Europe. This good-value restaurant on the edge of the old center has a dining room that's cozy in cool weather — and a balmy evenings, its great lakeside tables offer the best ambience in town. To properly enjoy this lavish palace — once the prince-archbishop's summer palace and now the seat of the mayor — get a ticket to a Schlosskonzert (my favorite venue for a classical concert; the palace is otherwise closed to visitors). The square was ringed by blacksmiths, bakers, and craftsmen. This cute little village was once the salt-mining namesake of a culture that spread from France to the Black Sea. From the castle take a stroll across the forested Mönchsberg hill for a breezy respite from the city, and more commanding views. It's good to see how, in the midst of all this tourism, purely local hangouts still survive. Through the centuries, Hallstatt was busy with the salt trade. They were "prince-archbishops" — combining both political and religious power. Mozart performed for the prince-archbishop right here. The organ loft fills the church with glorious sounds as Mozart, 250 years after his birth, is still powering worship with his musical genius. Rent bills are sent out about every 10 years. Herr Sporer: You have this after dinner as a digestif or you drink it beside a beer in the evening or... When he was 25 he was ready for the big city and moved to Vienna. Wolf Dietrich was raised in Rome, counted the powerful Medicis in Florence as his buddies, and had grandiose Italian ambitions for Salzburg. ▲ Mönchsberg Walk "The hills are alive" stroll you can enjoy right in downtown Salzburg. Sitting in the center of Europe is Austria. The skulls resting on Bibles are those of the town's priests. Salzburg is steeped in history. It's one of many throughout the region that offer tours. Though I don’t consider it my job to breathlessly promote every destination that comes down the pike…rather, I try to give hard opinions in the spirit of the king of hard travel opinions, Rick Steves. When it's cool outside, enjoy a historic indoor setting in any of several beer-sloshed and smoke-stained halls (one of which is still for smokers). Thanks to its formidable fortress and its knack for remaining neutral, the city managed to avoid the ravages of war until World War II. The countryside around Salzburg has plenty of farmhouse B&Bs. Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and money; Short itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the Romantic Road, the Rhine Valley, and Berlin, plus Salzburg, Austria; Rick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist traps; The best of local culture, flavors, and haunts, including walks through museums and atmospheric neighborhoods Rick: So there's many different kinds of schnapps? In Salzburg we'll explore its delightful Old Town, enjoy Mozart in a palace, and relax in a sun-dappled beer garden. And while you await your strudel, you can feed the swans. Herr Sporer: And it's very typical for this area. The next day, in Salzburg we parked our bikes at the Augustinian monastery where, once upon a time, the monks (must have been the most popular monks in town) brewed a heavenly beer. The town, which originated as a salt-mining center, is one of Europe's oldest, going back centuries before Christ. Each of the several hundred painted skulls has been lovingly named, dated, and decorated. Those Augustinians must have been the most popular monks in town for their rollicking beer garden. ▲ Steingasse Historic cobbled lane with trendy pubs in a nearly tourist-free part of old Salzburg. Red Bull Hangar-7 — Salzburg’s big personality these days is the tycoon founder of Red Bull energy drink, Dietrich Mateschitz. Nannerl called this portrait the best ever done of her brother. On this tour of Germany and Austria, your Rick Steves guide will bring this region's rich history and culture to life in festive Munich, Baroque Salzburg, sparkling Lake Hallstatt, monastic Melk, the blue Danube, and royal Vienna — with cozy villages and alpine vistas all along the way. Are you an author? Back then, salt was so precious because it preserved meat, and Hallstatt was, as its name means, the "place of salt.". By Rick Steves Hohensalzburg Fortress looms 400 feet above Salzburg's forest of Baroque spires. Terms of Service | Privacy, Upcoming Holidays and Festivals in Austria, Music Appreciation for Travel: Part II But throughout his youth, he called Salzburg home. ▲▲▲ Salzburg Town Walk Old Town's best sights in handy orientation walk (outlined in my guidebooks, and available as a free audio tour). Inside you'll find:Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and moneyShort itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the … Thanks for joining us. All over Europe I enjoy evocative cemeteries. The constantly flowing water flushed out the streets, provided fire protection, and powered factories. But Salzburg is busy all year long, with over 2,000 live performances in churches and palaces like this. The courtyard was the main square of this hilltop community of a thousand — which could be self-sufficient when necessary. Pondering the old-time signs — which were advertising back in the days when most shoppers couldn't read — you can almost imagine strolling here looking for a sturdy pair of boots, a stylish dirndl, or even a little schnapps. We have been traveling “Rick’s style” for 20+ years and love it. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. Some northern artists even Italianized their names in order to raise their rates. Salzburg and Vienna will always have part of my heart! Rick: And what is schnapps? Music and the visual art complement each other. Enjoy the lake-country view as you're dragged up the mountain. If you dug under these buildings, you'd find Roman and pre-Roman Celtic pavement stones from the ancient and prehistoric salt depot. we drove from Salzburg; it was easy (something like under 2 hours, as I recall), but do know people who did it by train. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Each summer it hosts its famous Salzburg Festival. Old Salzburg's busy and colorful main drag was, and still is, Getreidegasse. ▲▲ Getreidegasse Picturesque old shopping lane with characteristic wrought-iron signs. The Mozart family was successful enough to entertain Salzburg's high society in this fine room. Family of five (two young adults, one teen) Stuttgart and Munich advice. : OK. herr Sporer: and it was never really used in battle lead from through... 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